[kwlug-disc] Grounding for antenna

[unsolicited]

 > Question 2: Do I need to ground the RG6 as well using something like 
this:
 > http://www.homedepot.ca/product/grounding-block-dual-rg6-rg59/964991

Yes. (It's also the extra screw seen on splitters. Effects same thing. 
Difference is where in stream things are. Presumably closer to aerial 
the better.)

Wire to this screw from stake, plus wire under one of your clamps to 
this screw if not being clamped around the metal pole, should do it all, 
AFAIK.

Just rent a fence post pounder from somewhere for a few hours. Place 
opposite Wendy's near University & Weber (name I can't recall), 
HomeDepot, or wherever. Should be < $20, even for a day.

(Seems to me I saw only 3' was necessary, but IANAL.)

Any old wire, think car battery connected thickness should do. The one 
on mine inside house / to which bell also clamps, is green cladded. Many 
have no cladding at all, too. Oxidizes, no biggie.

- aside from ground wire also present, I ran an additional house wire 
sized one from my splitter to it. It's purpose is merely grounding, not 
lightning strike handling. (Not having an aerial. You probably have / 
had the equivalent put in by Rogers to their splitter / connection point.)

Thing to watch for is you want stake down as far as you can - here, so 
least human potential exposure (kids hand on stake same time as strike = 
bad), but also for least stubbed toes, lawnmover blade wrecking, and so 
on. I suppose placement as close as possible to a fence post will take 
advantage of hole already dug / least likely to give grief. (Wouldn't 
use water hose method there though ... would compromise fence post 
integrity, I expect.)

- it occurs to me ... just to see what / if any impact it might have on 
your signal, just throw a piece of house wiring between a cable 
connector and the plate screw of a nearby electrical socket. Doesn't 
deal with the lightning strike, but may demonstrate any value to 
grounding your signal. As you say, you're comfortable with a strike 
taking out your suppressor. You may or may not want more or less 
depending upon this test.


On 14-06-12 05:46 PM, Khalid Baheyeldin wrote:
> Looking at how proper grounding is done, an 8 ft copper grounding rod is
> driven in the soil as far as it goes. Then a thick copper wire is attached
> to it via a bolt.
>
> Driving a rod that long is no easy task
>
> Here is the simplest method with no tools, and least mess, just using the
> rod itself
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0dyf-fibzg
>
> Here is another fast method using a sledgehammer (but a custom bit is made
> for it)
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvCZvNj8H30
>
> Or this messy method using a a 10 ft 1/4" or 5/8" conduit and a garden hose
> , which takes ~ 20 minutes
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-kpI8PFNYl4
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5eorpQBml0
>
> Question 1: Any other simple method for driving the rod in the ground?
>
> Once the rod is in the ground, then all I need is something like this
> around the mast
> http://www.lowes.ca/grounding/iberville-12-in-to-1-in-grounding-clamp_9922518.html
>
> And attach it to a wire that attaches to the rod in the ground (or the rod
> itself if close enough), using this thingie
> http://www.lowes.ca/grounding/ideal-ground-rod-clamp-1-12-in-x-1-710-in_8785307.html
>
> Question 2: Do I need to ground the RG6 as well using something like this:
> http://www.homedepot.ca/product/grounding-block-dual-rg6-rg59/964991
>
> Note that the 100 ft RG6 goes into a surge protector near the TV (the other
> corner of the house from where the cable goes in to the house).
>
> Feedback appreciated.
>
>
>
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